fix: graceful remote skip, quieter backups, accurate snapshot counts

A scheduled backup to an unreachable remote now skips (exit 0) instead of erroring, so cron stops logging a failure when the NAS or laptop is offline. Authentication and host-key failures still error loudly, so a genuinely broken backup isn't masked as offline.

The actual backup drops rsync -v for --info=stats1, so the logfile gets a per-run summary instead of every transferred file path. The dryrun stays verbose.

list and status no longer count the latest/ working directory as a snapshot.

Snapshot directories are now read-only beyond the top level (find -type d). Only directories are touched, never the hard-linked files, so permissions don't ripple across snapshots.

Previously-unchecked rotation steps (orphan cleanup, the latest/ touch, the read-only chmod) now warn instead of failing silently. The remote snapshot listing falls back to BSD stat when GNU stat isn't available.

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